Traditional timber framing is the method by which trees are hewn by ax into square shapes, and then fitted together with hand cut joints that pin in place. This method, while extremely effective and attractive, proved impossible for us for one simple reason; we didn’t have any trees. What we did have, however, was a large pile of 2/4’s left over from a film set we had built, and then deconstructed after filming was complete. Cutting, gluing and screwing these smaller pieces together, we were able to create the larger "timbers" we needed, of virtually any size. Afterward, the surface could be planed down by hand, to create the impression of one large timber, rather than a composited one.

To fill the spaces between the timber framing, we used thin sheets of 7/32” plywood (almost all of which we also salvaged from a deconstructed film set of ours) On the inside of the frame, we fastened thin strips of wood, which created a shelf to which we could glue and screw our plywood paneling, inside and out. An inch and a half thick, these shelves decided the thickness of our insulation, which we achieved simply by tearing pink fiberglass insulation in half and stuffing in the cavities. Once the panels were screwed to the shelves outside, we sealed the cracks with epoxy and half round trim.

The roof is comprised of a rectangular frame, atop which sits 6 arches. We made the arches by cutting a dozen strips of 7/32” plywood 3” wide, which we than glued together on an arch template. We cut two layers narrower, creating a slot into which we could fit sheets of the same plywood, again insulating the space between with halved pieces of pink insulation. There are two 18’ long planks of hard wood that run the length of the roof, which help reinforce it from sagging during hoisting.

Side Expansions

Hoisting Roof